The Other California Road Trip: Los Angeles to Mammoth Lakes and Lake Tahoe

California and road trips have always gone hand in hand.

But mention driving through California and most people picture the Pacific Coast Highway: convertibles, ocean views, Big Sur and the road between Los Angeles and San Francisco.

On our recent trip, we went in the opposite direction.

Leaving Los Angeles behind, we headed inland towards the Eastern Sierra, travelling north to Mammoth Lakes before continuing on to Lake Tahoe. What followed was one of the most memorable parts of our time in California: enormous open roads, desert landscapes, small towns, alpine lakes, mountain trails and scenery that seemed to change almost by the hour.

If you've already experienced California's coast — or simply want to see a completely different side of the state — this is a road trip worth considering.

Road to June Lake, California

Leaving Los Angeles Behind

One of the things I love about a road trip is watching a destination change around you.

Rather than flying between two points and missing everything in between, driving from Southern California towards Mammoth gradually reveals a very different California.

Once you reach Highway 395, the Sierra Nevada increasingly dominates the landscape. It's a route officially promoted as a road trip in its own right, with access to places including Mt Whitney, the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest and, further north, Mono Lake and Bodie. Visit Mammoth

But part of the enjoyment is simply driving it.

Long, straight roads disappear towards the mountains. The urban sprawl of Los Angeles feels a very long way behind you and suddenly California feels enormous.

This isn't a drive I'd rush.

Stop in Bishop — and Go Hungry

One of the pleasures of a road trip is discovering the places you probably wouldn't otherwise visit, and Bishop makes an excellent stop before the final stretch into Mammoth.

More importantly, it gives you an excuse to visit Erick Schat's Bakkery.

The bakery has become something of a Highway 395 institution, but its history is particularly interesting. The Schat family's baking roots stretch back to Utrecht in the Netherlands in 1893, while the Bishop bakery is particularly associated with its Original Sheepherder Bread. Schat's Bakery & Cafe

It's exactly the sort of place a road trip should include: somewhere you weren't necessarily travelling for, but which becomes part of the memory of getting there.

From Bishop, the mountains grow increasingly dramatic as you continue towards Mammoth Lakes.

‍ Convict Lake, Mammoth Lakes, CA

Mammoth Lakes: More Than a Ski Resort

Before visiting, I'd largely associated Mammoth with skiing.

And yes, winter is a huge part of life here. But experiencing Mammoth without snow covering everything revealed an entirely different destination.

In the warmer months, skis are replaced by hiking boots, mountain bikes and paddleboards. The Mammoth Lakes Basin alone provides easy access to lakes including Mary, Twin, George, Mamie and Horseshoe, while the wider trail network extends for hundreds of miles. Visit California

We based ourselves at Limelight Mammoth, which worked brilliantly for exploring during the day while still having somewhere comfortable and sociable to return to in the evening.

Mammoth Village itself has that relaxed American mountain-town atmosphere: casual restaurants, bars and people dressed for wherever they're heading outdoors next.

But the reason to come here is what surrounds it.

The Lakes Are the Real Highlight

You could spend days simply exploring Mammoth's alpine lakes.

We visited Convict Lake, Lake George, Twin Lakes and Horseshoe Lake, each with a completely different feel.

But my favourite required a little more effort.

From Horseshoe Lake, a trail climbs through the woods to McLeod Lake. The official trail information puts the lake around half a mile uphill from the Horseshoe Lake parking area. Mammoth Trails

It's not a huge hike, but at altitude the climb certainly makes itself known. And it is absolutely worth it.

McLeod was one of those places that stopped us in our tracks: clear water, sandy shoreline, mountains rising behind it and, when we visited, no one around us.

Horseshoe itself is easily accessible and popular; McLeod feels like you've had to earn the view.

If I returned to Mammoth, I'd do it again without hesitation.

Mammoth Hot Springs

Look Up — and Get Up Early

Mammoth rewards slightly antisocial holiday hours.

One morning we watched the sun rise over the mountains. On another evening we headed to Minaret Vista for sunset, where the view stretches towards the Minarets and the Ansel Adams and John Muir Wilderness areas. Visit Mammoth

And after dark, away from the light pollution of California's cities, the night sky is extraordinary.

It's one of those destinations where the best parts of the day can easily be the hours you'd normally spend inside a hotel.

Gondolas, Hot Springs and a Rather Unsettled Earth

You don't have to be an experienced hiker to appreciate Mammoth.

The scenic gondola takes you to the summit of Mammoth Mountain at 11,053 feet, providing enormous views across the Sierra Nevada without requiring the corresponding climb.

The area's geology is also fascinating.

Mammoth sits within an active volcanic landscape. At Horseshoe Lake, for example, more than 100 acres of dead trees provide a very visible reminder of what lies below: carbon dioxide seeped through the ground following a swarm of small earthquakes in 1989–90.

There are earthquake faults to explore, geothermal landscapes and natural hot springs dotted around the wider area.

It makes Mammoth feel less like a single mountain resort and more like an enormous outdoor playground.

And Then There Were the Bears

One of the moments I'll remember most wasn't planned at all.

Driving through Mammoth, we watched a black bear cross the road with her cubs.

It was incredible — and also a useful reminder that you're very much sharing this landscape with wildlife.

Mammoth is black-bear country. If you encounter one, local guidance is very clear: keep your distance, never approach, don't run, back away slowly and, particularly importantly, never position yourself between a mother and her cubs. Food, rubbish and scented items also need to be stored responsibly so bears aren't encouraged towards people. Visit Mammoth

Seeing them from the safety of our car was a privilege. Trying to get closer for a photograph absolutely wouldn't have been.

Lake McLeod, Mammoth Lakes

When Should You Visit Mammoth?

This is one destination where the answer genuinely depends on what you want to do.

Winter is about snow. Mammoth Mountain is one of California's major ski destinations, and the landscape becomes an entirely different proposition.

Summer opens up the lakes and trails, making it ideal for hiking, cycling, fishing and spending time on the water.

But I particularly liked September.

We had cold mornings and evenings but beautifully crisp, sunny days — ideal for hiking once we'd added a few layers.

That's fairly typical of the season. Official Mammoth tourism information describes September and October as having crisp mornings and warmer afternoons, with September and early October historically among the driest periods of the year. Autumn is also quieter than the summer and winter peaks.

Late September into October brings another attraction as the aspens begin turning gold, although weather at altitude can change quickly and the first high-elevation snowfall often arrives by mid-October.

If hiking and road tripping were my priorities, I'd happily choose September again.

A Note on Cost: California Isn't Cheap

This is something worth factoring into the budget before travelling.

We found everyday spending in California noticeably expensive. A takeaway coffee could easily come to around $9, while a two-course dinner with a glass of wine was often around $90 per person.

Those aren't official averages — they're examples of what we actually paid and encountered on this trip — but over a week or two they add up quickly.

Tax and tipping can also make the final bill feel considerably higher than the menu price to a British traveller. It doesn't make the journey any less worthwhile, but I'd build a realistic food and spending budget into the trip rather than treating it as an afterthought.

Don't Turn Around at Mammoth

Mammoth also works beautifully as part of a longer journey.

Continue north on Highway 395 and the scenery keeps coming. The route provides access to June Lake and Mono Lake, while Bodie State Historic Park can also be incorporated depending on your itinerary and seasonal access

We continued all the way to Lake Tahoe and this is where the road trip changes character again.

Suddenly the destination revolves around that extraordinary blue water, pine forests, beaches and mountain communities scattered around the shoreline.

Lake Tahoe — and a Lesson in Timing

We arrived over Labor Day weekend, which is something I'd think carefully about if planning the journey again.

Tahoe in summer is extremely popular, and Labor Day brings the final major holiday weekend of the US summer season. We certainly felt it.

Our experience around the lake also varied enormously depending on where we went.

We stayed near Carnelian Bay on the California side of North Lake Tahoe, which gave us a noticeably calmer base than some of the busier areas we encountered elsewhere around the lake. Carnelian Bay sits among the five California communities that make up North Lake Tahoe, alongside Tahoe City, Truckee, Kings Beach and Tahoe Vista.

Planning a California Road Trip?

California doesn't have to mean choosing between Los Angeles, San Francisco and the coast.

At Woodward & Lane, we create tailor-made journeys around the places you want to experience — including the roads, small towns, hotels and unexpected stops in between.

Whether you're considering an inland journey through the Eastern Sierra, combining Mammoth with Lake Tahoe, or want to create a completely different California itinerary, get in touch and let's start planning your journey.